These are some photographs I have taken in eateries on highways (dhabas) during road-trips that I have been on with my husband across Central India.
Here are a few lines from my soon to be published novel 'You're stuck with me for life' where Neeti and Ronit take a lunch-break while on a road-trip from Indore to Ranthambore:
Neeti:
“Look out for decent dhabas”,
Ronit instructs me, “We need to stop somewhere for lunch.”
“I see one coming up on the left.” I
inform him.
“Seems too basic”, he says,
narrowing his eyes in disapproval before he continues, “There are no cars
parked there. Try to spot one where a lot of cars are parked. Cars, not trucks,
mind you.”
His comment brings back memories
from a long time ago. Papa used to joke that some dhaba-walas probably park old cars in front of their establishments
to convince people about the quality of their wares. It seems people are more
likely to stop at an unknown eatery if they find it somewhat crowded. Of
course, people of a similar social strata are the ones that count in this
equation, hence Ronit’s comments about avoiding the dhabas with too many
trucks. Finally, we settle on one that claims to be a 'Jain family restaurant'.
There are over half a dozen cars parked in front of the single-storied structure. The wide entrance leads to a covered sitting area with plastic
tables and chairs. There are a few khatiyas
on one side with wooden boards serving as tables. To the left of the sitting
area is a small shop with streams of brightly coloured packets of snacks
hanging from one side. There is a small freshly painted yellow building on the
right with T-O-I-L-E-T written in big, bold, blue letters. The place looks
promising. I hope the toilet is clean.
Ronit:
I take off my sunglasses and place
them on a red plastic table. The sitting area is quite airy and open. About
half the seats in the eatery are taken. It doesn’t feel crowded. I look around
for a waiter and wave my hand to grab his attention before I take a seat.
“Kya
lenge sahab?” The middle-aged waiter asks, bending his right shoulder
towards me, focusing his ears to receive instructions. The blue and white checkered gamcha on his left shoulder seems
somewhat at odds with his well worn dark trousers and cream shirt.
“Ek
dal tadka, ek jeera aloo, chaar roti.” I inform him. It’s best to keep the menu simple.
“Tandoori roti or chapati?” He asks,
his eyes focused on the edge of the red table in front of me.
“Which one will I get faster?” I
retort, wanting to know the implication of my choices.
“Everything is fast.” He says, looking
towards me with pride and confidence. No doubt an eatery on the highway
must often need to cater to customers in a rush.
“Get me tandoori rotis then.”, I
decide, “No butter. And be quick with the food.”
Having received the requisite
instructions the waiter walks to the large window of the open-ish kitchen right
in front of me and has a chat with a stout man in a brown ganji who is stirring
some concoction in a large black kadhai
using a giant ladle. I wonder if some of the contents of that kadhai are going to end up on my table.